MCofS Youth Climbing Series

Please note that the MCofS Youth Climbing Series Round 2 is being held at Transition this Saturday 5th April. The wall will be closed all day for the competition that starts at 09:30.


We apologise for any inconvenience caused and appreciate your cooperation in our efforts to develop the world of Climbing.


Cheers all,

10 degree board re set

The 10 degree board is on its way with 8 problems so far and more are to be added in the near future.
The Problems will be displayed on the grading lists at the side of the bouldering walls over the next day or so (or as each panel is re set).

Problems so far:

Yellow; Sit Start, HF, No Bridging and no Arete V5
Dark Purple; Sit start, AF, All features in V1
Grey/Orange; Sit Start, HF, No Bridging and no Arete V4
White/Green; Sit Start, HF + Bridging, No Arete V4
Tan; Sit start, AF, All features in V3
Green (left); Sit Start, HF + Arete, No bridging V3
White; Sit Start, HF, No Bridging and no Arete V3
FL Orange; Sit Start, HF, No Bridging and no Arete V3

Purple;Sit Start, HF, No Bridging and no Arete V3

Green slopers (right); Sit Start, HF, No Bridging/Arete V8

Red; Sit Start, HF V1

TEAM TRANSITION STORMS SOUTH

After Tim dropped me off from our day on the coast (see previous post), I quickly packed my bag and crammed into a minibus with a group of Aberdeen University student and drove down south. Just 2 hours before dusk, we arrived at Stanage car park. After a brief nap in the cave and in the minibus (in one case, ON the minibus) and a quick breakfast in Hathersage we assaulted the crag.

Alex (new in Transition) displayed exceptional skills sending the classic Deliverance. Some E3s and E4s (such as Cavalry and Tele) were tackled and proved to be of some very fine climbing. And of course the classic Flying Buttress Direct. After this great day and there was more climbing to come…

On Saturday some of us headed off to Sheffield’s Climbing Works to take part in the British Universities Championships (BUSA). 70 teams from all over the UK climbed 25 boulder problems. The team was not feeling strong after the day on grit; so even greater was our surprise when we were awarded three bronze medals! A team from Sheffield took the first place and runner up was the team from Manchester.

Our Team from Aberdeen consisted of: Anna Wells (climbing instructor), Luke Fairweather (café kitchen staff) and Piotr Wisthal (climbing instructor). Anna also came third in Women Individual category. Well-done Anna!

As if that was not enough we headed (after a well-deserved kebabs and pizzas) to Chris Sharma’s lecture. Those who had enough energy (everybody apart from me) climbed on Sunday as well.

By
Piotr Wisthal

45 degree board Re Set

Stuart Stronach kindly re-set the 45 board today on his time off from work. I also managed to put a problem or two up...


Dark Purple; Sit start, HF, no features V2
Dark Green; Sit start, HF, no features V5
Yellow; Sit start, HF, no features V3
Purple; Sit start, HF, no features (left side of board) V4
Red; Sit start, HF, no features V3
Tan; Sit start, HF, no features V9
Mint; Sit start, HF, no features V4
Fl Pink; Sit start, HF, no features V7
Fl Orange; Sit start (left side of board), HF, feat for feet V5
White; Sit Start, HF no features (up left of 45) V4
Purple/Orange Swirls; Sit start, HF no features V7


Happy bouldering.....

Re Setting the Bouldering Wall

We've started setting on the Bouldering wall and plan to work through it panel by panel. Discuption should be a minimum as we will be doing it during the day time over the next week or so.

Wintery day at the beachfront

Today has seen a start to the easter holidays and with it some wintery snow showers...

The moments when Mr Sunshine could peek through the masses of clouds were in fact very nice and if out of the wind; quite pleasant.

Throughout the easter holidays we are running kids camps and a lot of bookings for council, private, family and many other groups throughout the day. We also have the usual courses and private bookings in the evenings that will primarily use the group instructional wall.

We also have the British Youth Climbing series with us on the 5th of April. Please note that the Climbing Centre will be closed on that date as the competition will run from opening through to the early evening.

Team Transition Repeat Coast E7

Good things come to those who wait or in mine and Piotr's case those who persevere!

Wasted Years was first climbed by Matt Ingham in 1994 and its ascent immediately made an impression especially when it was graded E6! Matt climb the stunning line right of Bagheera on The Escarpment and having made the second ascent of Lunatic Fringe(E7) he was clearly no slouch!

My attention was first drawn to the line by rumours of its desperate moves so far above protection but I was to learn quickly how compelling the line was too. But probably what attracted me most was the challenge of working out a way up 8 metres of seemingly blank rock linking two well defined cracks. Of course it then dawned on me having done this relatively quickly I had no excuse not to try the lead! The key seemed to be convincing myself that although it was potentially a huge fall form 6 metre above the projection on 6b and 6c ground I shouldn't hurt myself, so what was all the fuss!

Having been frozen into submission on our first attempted (and my 3rd!) to get it lead in December Piotr and I headed back up on Thursday 14th March. After a quick refresher on the moves we abseiled into the hanging belay and only just in time as the tide turned and soaked the starting foot holds! Piotr did a stunning job belaying and grigring up the rope at the same time to avoid the incoming tide. The second ascent went smoothly enough and thankfully without taking the fall!!! But I had taking it so many times already when ever I shut my eyes I would find myself missing that crucial dead point and falling into space......... But not any more.

The north coast in all its glory, Tim Rankin on the first ascent of Comfortably Numb E8 6c (photo Mike Reed collection)

Triple Decker Sunday @ Portlethen

Neil, Daniel, Mark and myself headed down to the boulders at Portlethen yesterday for a wee sesh. Kids piano lessons, diy and work commitments ensured we didn't get too carried away...

Mark had three routes in his sights that he had insisted were going to be sent; The Pit, The Lynx Effect, and The Barrel Traverse.

Neil headed to the warm up wall to get started whilst Mark, Daniel and I, after a few pull ups and 'hangs' got stuck in about The Pit. Unsurprisingly some of us struggled to wake our bodies up to full throttle whilst Mark prepped up.

The weather was mixed sun and showers but the rock dried very quickly and proved to be of good friction.

Neil returned back, and Markpromptly proceeded to send The Pit in good strong style.

We then proceeded to the Barrel with gems such as Slap and Tickle and the Barrel Traverse in our sights.


















With the starting hand sequences completely changed I strained through on the low slopers of the Traverse. Anything to make it more difficult! Having done the crux moves i must admit to almost diving off the boulder on probably the easiest part of the problem.

Up to the sports wall with Lynx Effect and Into the Groove were the targets.

Some powerful crimping action was needed and ultimately given by all!

Fortunately we had four mats with us to cover the drop zone fromthe highball Move to the Groove as thats the last thing you want to be worrying about when you're crimping a two fingered notch and sharp ledges...The Trio was done! Mark had his ticks for the day so everything else was a bonus.

The fingers were beginning to tingle and strain so we opted for some luxury. Being in the Sun we headed down to one of the Slabs, The Howling and then the Sea pig to tackle the prow.









With questionalble style and refined stubborness I proceeded to prove the use for fnacy rock shoes and extravagant moves as i continued through the prow with heel hooks, toe hooks, hanging upside down and figure of fours! All from less than a foot off the ground.


The north side fo the boulder and problem were proving to be the trickiest as the rain had kept the holds damp and a mix of slopers and showers didn't help matters.

All in all a good day even with the scattered showers. Some classic Porty routes and a great sign of strong climbing to come this summer!!

Check out the Links to the Flickr sites for more photos.

4 Peaks Challenge 13th April

Transition are looking for enthusiastic climbers to enter a team for the fundraising event on 13th April. 32 teams of 6 climbers (with one reserve) will attempt to climb the four highest peaks from around the UK (Scotland, Wales, N Ireland and England).

Sponsorship monies from the event will help Transition with future developments and additions.
There will be loads of prizes on the day and an 'after party' in the centre after the event.

If you want to enter; either pick up a form from reception or email Duncan Paterson for the entry forms.

Entries should be in by 21st March so don't waste any time!!!

Welcome

Hello world!

Welcome to the Transition Extreme Climbing Blog...

Here you will find news on recent events, competitions and other goings on in and around Transtion. The blog is edited by Transition Extreme and is open for all to view.

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