BOULDERING MASTERS POSTPONED

It is with regret that we have to postpone the competition on Sunday 27th April.

We will try and reschedule for a later date but may have to leave until after the summer.

Keep a look out for competition series over the summer for those days you're not out on the crags!

These series will be along the lines of a set number of problems or routes to be done in a few weeks or a month, and a super final at the end of it..........

See you soon.

Sun and Hail

Despite the mixed weather over the passed 10 days the determined or the plain obsessed like me have managed some great routes and some crags have been positively mobbed!

Gordon Lennox kicked it off on Wednesday the 9th when an "optimistic" evening hit to Meikle Parton provided the long awaited good conditions essential for placing the crucial cam on Paul Mather's "Blind Optimism" E6 6c. Sending its 3rd ascent and proving its already a classic and excellent addition to one of the north coasts most popular cliffs. (right)

I then stunned myself when I managed to link the super direct finish on top rope! Having been alerted to the great potential of the line I had been on it 2 times previously but never been able to link more than a couple of moves. "What a wonderful thing a northerly can bring!" The rock felt sticky and I felt obliged to stick myself to it! So I took to the lead! Sheer shock at my own progress brought failure the first time but second go I linked it to give the coast one of its toughest E7. "Sonar" maybe short but it packs a punch.

Gordy was at it again the following Sunday unperturbed by the heavy showers he got on Upside Downies (E5 6b) at Berymuir Head and stunned the on lookers as he pushed on boldly up wet holds with only a lonesome nut! (Left)

Berrymuir was a great place to be during the squally showers and it was great to see 3 separate parties there making the most of the sunny spells and the banter was great as we accused each other of being mad!

Shame then that I drew the short straw seconding Gordy with the hail bouncing off my napper!

Finlay Bennett managed a quick ascent of Quickdraw McGraw between showers, surely one of the coasts steepest E1's? This was its second ascent of the day and another classic The Niche also saw 2 ascent, there was nearly queues forming! (Right)

I returned the following Wednesday the 16th of April with Dan Richardson and a length of hose pipe to take another look at a new line! After growing inpatient at the speed the rock pool was draining I decided that a smelly mat and potential broken bones where worth the risk to capitalise on the excellent conditions the northerlys were still providing. It paid off as I added possibly the south coasts first E8 up the overhanging arete left of Recess Route. "Sarlacc Pool" will have to wait on a second ascent to gauge just how serious it is?

Just before the birds got to settled on their perches Gordon and I made a mid week dash to the Red Wall. We braved the chilling Northerly winds and repeated some excellent routes.

Gordy made light work of repeating Mike Reeds excellent understated wall climb "Shrinking Violet". Well worth the effort and probably quite high in the grade at E4 6a but worthy of 2 stars in my book!

We then reversed "Phaff", I warmed my hands and made a dash for the top up the most desperate looking crack in the north! There was plainly a reason it had remained unrepeated for 25 year! But I blew the cobwebs out the crack and and got on with it speeded more by numbing hands than the pump to successfully top out of"The Arrow" E5 6c

All that was left was to send the remaining hard line "Hundred Acre Woods" E5 6b to complete a stunning day on the North coast granite.

What a great place to live with all this on your doorstep?

4 Peaks Challenge: The aftermath

Well,

After a busy day with 7 teams and around 50 people even the staff were sweating just watching the flurry of ascents throughout the day.

Teams consisting of local climbers, companies and outdoor stores as well as the Air Training Corps Cadets fought hard and they all completed the challenge of climbing the height of the 4 heighest peaks from around the UK; 4,190metres!!

Special note goes to Team 'Tangfastic Six' for not only climbing the greatest height in half a day buit also the total for the whole day! Also to Joan Love for having 90 ascents to her name over the course of the day.

Competitors had the luxury of Massage Therapy throughout the day thanks to Gail Selbie and her team

Thanks to everyone who took part and we hope you enjoyed the day!

I will update with the total Sponsorship money raised when we have the final tally.

Vertical Wall and adjacent wall Re Set

There have been some new problems put up on the vertical section of the bouldering wall. More will be added as soon as we can. I'll also put some pics up of them too...

Blue; HF, Sit start, no features or bridging V5
Blue; HF Sit start, no features, bridging allowed V4
Brown; HF, Sit start V2
Fl Pink; HF, Sit start, no features V4
Grey; HF, Sit start features for feet V4
Fl Orange; HF, Sit start, no features V3
Yellow; HF, Sit start, V2
Tan; HF Sit start V1
Blue/Green Swirls; HF, Sit start (no bridging required; heel hook...) V2

Transition Bouldering Masters Competition

ARE YOU READY???

The first Transition Bouldering Masters competition is being held on Sunday 27th April.

This is your chance to compete and be named the Transition Bouldering Master!

Fun category runs from 15:00 to 17:00 and the Elite from 18:00 to 20:00. Each category will have 10 problems to be attempted in the two hours. There is no limit on the number of attempts you can have.

Register on the day no later than half an hour before the event so that you can get warmed up.

The bouldering wall will be closed to the public on this day for the competition (the rest of the wall will remain open).

Skinless re setting on the Barrel

After playing on the new problems on the bouldering wall over the last few days i've all but lost feeling and skin in my fingertips!



Problems:

Green/Black Spots; HF, Feature for feet V4
Pink/Black Spots; HF, No Feature V2
Yellow; HF, Feature for feet V4
Tan; HF, No Feature V3
Mint; HF, Feature for feet V4
FL Orange; HF, No Feature V4
Lilac; HF, Feature for feet V2

Under the roof in the early hours: Roof re set

With my body clock out of sync with the rest of the world for various resons i stayed late last night to get the bulk of the re setting done on the roof... (all are sit starts)

Yellow; HF, No Features, Bottom left start V6

Fl Pink; HF, & Feet on feature with FL Pink hold and box volume on side of roof only V7

Mint; HF & Features for feet V4

Yellow/Orange; HF & Feet on feature with yel/or hold only. finishes round left side of 45 board. V8

Yellow/Red Stripes; Dyno HF, No Features V5

Black; HF & all Features V4

Dark Green; HF & all Features V3

Rock; HF & all Features V3

Dark Green and Rock; HF & all features V2

Blue; HF, No Features, starting hold under volume on 45 board V7

Brown; HF, No Features V7

Red/Grey; HF, No Features V6

Fl Green&Big Green Edgez; HF, No Features V6

Pink/Purple Swirls (right side); HF, no feature, brick wall allowed for feet at start V4