Gordon Lennox kicked it off on Wednesday the 9th when an "optimistic" evening hit to Meikle Parton provided the long awaited good conditions essential for placing the crucial cam on Paul Mather's "Blind Optimism" E6 6c. Sending its 3rd ascent and proving its already a classic and excellent addition to one of the north coasts most popular cliffs. (right)I then stunned myself when I managed to link the super direct finish on top rope! Having been alerted to the great potential of the line I had been on it 2 times previously but never been able to link more than a couple of moves. "What a wonderful thing a northerly can bring!" The rock felt sticky and I felt obliged to stick myself to it! So I took to the lead! Sheer shock at my own progress brought failure the first time but second go I linked it to give the coast one of its toughest E7. "Sonar" maybe short but it packs a punch.
Gordy was at it again the following Sunday unperturbed by the heavy showers he got on Upside Downies (E5 6b) at Berymuir Head and stunned the on lookers as he pushed on boldly up wet holds with only a lonesome nut! (Left)
Berrymuir was a great place to be during the squally showers and it was great to see 3 separate parties there making the most of the sunny spells and the banter was great as we accused each other of being mad!
Shame then that I drew the short straw seconding Gordy with the hail bouncing off my napper!
Finlay Bennett managed a quick ascent of Quickdraw McGraw between showers, surely one of the coasts steepest E1's? This was its second ascent of the day and another classic The Niche also saw 2 ascent, there was nearly queues forming! (Right)
I returned the following Wednesday the 16th of April with Dan Richardson and a length of hose pipe to take another look at a new line! After growing inpatient at the speed the rock pool was draining I decided that a smelly mat and potential broken bones where worth the risk to capitalise on the excellent conditions the northerlys were still providing. It paid off as I added possibly the south coasts first E8 up the overhanging arete left of Recess Route. "Sarlacc Pool" will have to wait on a second ascent to gauge just how serious it is?
Just before the birds got to settled on their perches Gordon and I made a mid week dash to the Red Wall. We braved the chilling Northerly winds and repeated some excellent routes.
Gordy made light work of repeating Mike Reeds excellent understated wall climb "Shrinking Violet". Well worth the effort and probably quite high in the grade at E4 6a but worthy of 2 stars in my book!
We then reversed "Phaff", I warmed my hands and made a dash for the top up the most desperate looking crack in the north! There was plainly a reason it had remained unrepeated for 25 year! But I blew the cobwebs out the crack and and got on with it speeded more by numbing hands than the pump to successfully top out of"The Arrow" E5 6cAll that was left was to send the remaining hard line "Hundred Acre Woods" E5 6b to complete a stunning day on the North coast granite. 
What a great place to live with all this on your doorstep?
