Bouldering Comps Top Tips
With our bouldering series running this winter we asked comp veteran Neil Morrison for his top tips. Along with Neil Shepherd from Arbroath, Neil organised the Vango Scottish Bouldering League back in the early 90’s with the two of them setting the problems. Neil’s first comp was actually organised by the other Neil at the Olympia Wall in Dundee. He won that and competed variously at Alien Rock, The Glasgow Wall, a couple of times in the Northern Indoor Bouldering League in England and an inter league comp in Keswick. He also took part in the North East Winter Woody Leagues’ which took place round different folks indoor boards. Creaky fingers have now forced on semi retirement so he can get back to setting devious problems.
With our bouldering series running this winter we asked comp veteran Neil Morrison for his top tips. Along with Neil Shepherd from Arbroath, Neil organised the Vango Scottish Bouldering League back in the early 90’s with the two of them setting the problems. Neil’s first comp was actually organised by the other Neil at the Olympia Wall in Dundee. He won that and competed variously at Alien Rock, The Glasgow Wall, a couple of times in the Northern Indoor Bouldering League in England and an inter league comp in Keswick. He also took part in the North East Winter Woody Leagues’ which took place round different folks indoor boards. Creaky fingers have now forced on semi retirement so he can get back to setting devious problems.
Here's what Neil had to say:
Before the Comp 
A couple of weeks before the comp get off that lead wall and get in some bouldering. Use all the angles and, with a mate or two, set your own problems using mixed holds and then try to flash them. This will give you a feel for working out new problems and sequences. Usually your mates will set problems that suit their strengths and you will set to yours, so trying each others problems will test you more. The existing problems are too familiar and won’t hone your comp skills. Also make sure you get in some serious stretching and practice those high steps and rockovers. An added bonus of moving over the wall is that you will gain familiarity with the holds on the wall. So that when you are looking up at that purple hold on a comp problem you will have an idea whether it’s a sloper or a crimp.
A couple of days before the comp take a rest, you want to be fresh and keen on the day of the comp. If you are big on your running avoid it for a couple of days before as it is bad for stiffening up those limbs.
A couple of weeks before the comp get off that lead wall and get in some bouldering. Use all the angles and, with a mate or two, set your own problems using mixed holds and then try to flash them. This will give you a feel for working out new problems and sequences. Usually your mates will set problems that suit their strengths and you will set to yours, so trying each others problems will test you more. The existing problems are too familiar and won’t hone your comp skills. Also make sure you get in some serious stretching and practice those high steps and rockovers. An added bonus of moving over the wall is that you will gain familiarity with the holds on the wall. So that when you are looking up at that purple hold on a comp problem you will have an idea whether it’s a sloper or a crimp.
A couple of days before the comp take a rest, you want to be fresh and keen on the day of the comp. If you are big on your running avoid it for a couple of days before as it is bad for stiffening up those limbs.
On the day
Get their good and early so that you are not rushing about, stressed and playing catch up.
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Warm up before starting with stretching and a bit of exercise (you might look daft but run round the building 2 or 3 times) to get the heart pumping and the blood flowing. It is far too easy to get caught up in it all and get a cold pump which you don’t get over or worse you tweak something in your haste to get going. If you tweak something, STOP, get some ice and rest it straight away. You’ll only make it worse by continuing and will then have a longer lay off.
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Read the rules for the comp and the rules for each problem carefully so that you know what you are doing. e.g. If it says to finish with both hands in control on the top then make sure you do or you have not done the problem. Make sure you understand which holds are for what as some problems may allow the holds to be used for Hands and Feet only while others will use marked handholds but feet on any holds. Check if arêtes and blank panel surfaces are allowed or not.
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Do a recce of the problems so that you can work out which ones you are likely to do easily and which ones will be harder or simply too hard. Try to decide when you will try them in the comp. With the harder ones aim to have a go when you are warmed up and have had success on a few problems but before you are too knackered and powered out. Leave some of the easier ones for the end. Do the recce before the comp if you can or at the start as you work through a few of the obviously easy problems.
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Spectate, spectate, spectate. Watch others and you will get an idea of how to do problems. You might even see easy or successful ways of doing problems you thought were too hard. Try to team up with someone round about your own ability(or slightly better) and work round with them working out how to do each problem and sharing first goes at problems.
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Pace yourself, don’t go off like a greyhound. Ease into the comp and dot about the angles, don’t do all the slabs and vertical walls then leave yourself with the 45 degree board and ceiling at the end.
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Go for the flash and don’t wear yourself out trying to repeatedly crack a problem you have failed to get the flash on, you can come back to it later and try to pick up the points but save your energy for those Ten pointers.
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Keep eating and drinking throughout it to keep your energy levels up.
---------------------------------------------
Sit down when you are eating and drinking, it’s too easy and tiring to spent the whole time of the comp on your feet, buzzing about and tiring yourself out with nervous energy. Conserve your energy for when you are on the wall.
---------------------------------------------
Remember why you are in it and have fun.
Get their good and early so that you are not rushing about, stressed and playing catch up.
---------------------------------------------
Warm up before starting with stretching and a bit of exercise (you might look daft but run round the building 2 or 3 times) to get the heart pumping and the blood flowing. It is far too easy to get caught up in it all and get a cold pump which you don’t get over or worse you tweak something in your haste to get going. If you tweak something, STOP, get some ice and rest it straight away. You’ll only make it worse by continuing and will then have a longer lay off.
---------------------------------------------
Read the rules for the comp and the rules for each problem carefully so that you know what you are doing. e.g. If it says to finish with both hands in control on the top then make sure you do or you have not done the problem. Make sure you understand which holds are for what as some problems may allow the holds to be used for Hands and Feet only while others will use marked handholds but feet on any holds. Check if arêtes and blank panel surfaces are allowed or not.
---------------------------------------------
Do a recce of the problems so that you can work out which ones you are likely to do easily and which ones will be harder or simply too hard. Try to decide when you will try them in the comp. With the harder ones aim to have a go when you are warmed up and have had success on a few problems but before you are too knackered and powered out. Leave some of the easier ones for the end. Do the recce before the comp if you can or at the start as you work through a few of the obviously easy problems.
---------------------------------------------
Spectate, spectate, spectate. Watch others and you will get an idea of how to do problems. You might even see easy or successful ways of doing problems you thought were too hard. Try to team up with someone round about your own ability(or slightly better) and work round with them working out how to do each problem and sharing first goes at problems.
---------------------------------------------
Pace yourself, don’t go off like a greyhound. Ease into the comp and dot about the angles, don’t do all the slabs and vertical walls then leave yourself with the 45 degree board and ceiling at the end.
---------------------------------------------
Go for the flash and don’t wear yourself out trying to repeatedly crack a problem you have failed to get the flash on, you can come back to it later and try to pick up the points but save your energy for those Ten pointers.
---------------------------------------------
Keep eating and drinking throughout it to keep your energy levels up.
---------------------------------------------
Sit down when you are eating and drinking, it’s too easy and tiring to spent the whole time of the comp on your feet, buzzing about and tiring yourself out with nervous energy. Conserve your energy for when you are on the wall.
---------------------------------------------
Remember why you are in it and have fun.
